Your first onsen in Japan: what to know
A hot-spring bath is one of the pleasures of a trip to Japan, and sometimes the best memory is a quiet evening at a ryokan in the hills. It is more relaxing when you know how it works before you arrive.
How the bath works
In most shared baths you wash and rinse at the taps before you step into the water, you keep your towel out of the bath, and you keep your voice low. Rules on swimwear and tattoos differ from one place to another, so they are worth checking in advance.
Families and older travellers
For a family, ask whether there is a private bath or one that can be reserved for your group, and whether small children may use the baths. For older travellers, think about the water temperature, how long to stay in, and the steps and floors around the bath.
Where to spend the night
Some travellers choose Hakone because it fits easily with a day at Mount Fuji; others prefer Kusatsu, Yufuin or Kurokawa Onsen, each with its own journey and pace. There is no need to visit several hot springs in one day: one night in the right place is often worth more.
Asahi’s note
Choose a hot spring for the people travelling with you, the privacy you want and the journey to get there, not only for its pictures.
